Memories of Poona-4

Forts around Poona

Maharashtra is rightly known as the “Land of Forts,” with nearly 450 forts spread across the state—the highest number in India. The Marathas, renowned for their courage and military skill, made the most of the rugged terrain of the Western Ghats, which offered natural strategic advantages. It is no surprise, therefore, that many forts were built on the hills surrounding Poona, serving as strongholds for defense, administration, and control.

One of the most iconic structures within Poona city itself is Shaniwar Wada, an 18th-century fortification built as the official residence of Baji Rao I and the seat of the Peshwas. The name literally means “Saturday residence.” The complex was built with five gateways and nine bastion towers surrounding a beautifully laid-out garden. It remained the administrative center of the Maratha Confederacy until 1818. Sadly, a major fire in 1828 destroyed most of the structure, leaving behind the ruins we see today.

Beyond the city lie several well-known forts such as Simhagad, Purandar, and Shivneri—each steeped in history and legend.

During my school days in Poona, I enjoyed memorable picnic trips arranged by our teachers to the Purandar and Simhagad forts. I am happy to share a few recollections of those visits.

Purandar Fort:

Located about 50 km from Pune, Purandar Fort is historically significant as the birthplace of Sambhaji, the son of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. It also played a key role in Shivaji’s resistance against the Mughals. The fort has a distinctive two-tier upper and lower structure. Perched at roughly 4,500 feet above sea level, it offers breathtaking views of the Western Ghats and the surrounding countryside.

Simhagad Fort:

Situated around 36 km southwest of Pune, Simhagad (meaning Fort of the Lion) stands majestically on the Bhuleshwar range of the Sahyadris. Besides its stunning natural setting, the fort is noted for its long and dramatic history. Once under Mughal control, it was later captured by the Marathas in a legendary battle. Today, with its scenic vistas, challenging trekking paths, and historic charm, Simhagad remains one of the most popular forts.

There are several other prominent forts that I did not visit but knew of through stories and accounts.  

Shivneri Fort:

Located near Junnar, Shivneri Fort dates back to the 17th century and is revered as the birthplace of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. The fort houses statues of Shivaji and his mother, Jijabai, and stands as a proud reminder of Maratha heritage.

Raigad Fort:

A monumental symbol of Maratha glory, Raigad Fort rises to about 2,700 feet and served as the capital of the Maratha Empire under Shivaji Maharaj. It remains one of the most historically significant forts in Maharashtra.

Memories of Poona-3

 Exotic Professions in Poona

Poona has long been known for its teachers, scholars, sportsmen, and other accomplished professionals. Yet, beyond these well-known occupations, there existed a fascinating array of lesser-known trades — humble livelihoods that gave the city its unique character.

As a school-going boy, I was often captivated by these people who offered their services in public spaces. I remember the ‘Nhavis’— barbers who set up their mobile shops under the shade of a tree. There were no chairs or fancy tools, just a pair of scissors, a razor, a small mirror, and skilled hands at work. They charged a mere two or four annas depending on the quantum of work involved.

At the Poona railway station’s third-class ticket counter, an ‘Attarwala’ would appear with a tray of beautiful glass perfume bottles. For a few coins, he would dab fragrant attar on your wrists or neck; if you wished, he would even give you a quick head and neck massage.

Then there were the ‘Kaan Saaf Wallahs’— traditional ear cleaners, a profession that likely dated back generations. They offered their peculiar street-side service with great pride, though I imagine their numbers have dwindled over time with the advent of modern hygienic practices.

On my walks from Poona station to school, I would often pause to watch fortune tellers. Some used a caged parrot that would pick cards foretelling a client’s future; others preferred to read palms through a magnifying lens.

Inside trains, young vendors would move briskly through the aisles selling ‘katta mitta orange’— colorful assortment of sweet-and-sour candies neatly displayed on circular trays made from discarded cinema film reels. During the hot months, they switched to selling ‘kaakdi’ — peeled snow white cucumbers, gently sliced and sprinkled with salt and chili powder, a refreshing treat for weary travelers.

Another unforgettable sight was that of the ‘Vasudevs’ — men dressed in strikingly colorful headgear who went door to door singing the Lord’s glory to earn a modest living. Sometimes, they were accompanied by a decorated bull, adding color and devotion to the scene.

Not all scenes were pleasant, though. I remember being horrified by a few men from a particular community who would publicly whip their own backs with knotted cords — a painful ritual performed to earn alms from onlookers.

But among all these, my favorite memory remains the ‘Usaa cha Ras’ shops that offered fresh sugarcane juice extracted by a wooden press turned by a circling bull inside a makeshift tent. The villagers who ran these ‘Rasvanti Gruha’ or stalls would sing Marathi folk songs while the bull moved patiently in circles, the rhythm of the song matching the turning of the press.

These scenes from Poona’s streets, though simple and humble, remain deeply etched in my memory — each a glimpse into the city’s vibrant and diverse way of life. Loved those good old days!

Memories of Poona-2

The Bungalows of Poona

Having lived in one of the old bungalows built during the British era, I have always admired their distinctive architectural beauty. Some of these homes were spacious and grand, occupying large plots of land in the ordnance estate and military areas of Kirkee, while others were modest cottages with charming verandahs. Yet, every one of them had a special warmth that made it a lovely home. Many had enough space for a lush garden, adding to their charm.

The bungalow I lived in was a fine example of this old-world grace. Built with sturdy stone walls, it featured long front and back verandahs, smooth cemented floors, and imported Shanks sanitary fittings — including a large bathtub. The kitchen had a coal-fired baking oven with a built-in chimney, and the rooms were equipped with wooden shelves, cupboards, and two large three-compartment wardrobes. Doors of wood, glass, and net allowed light and air to flow freely, while the sloping tiled roof with a high false ceiling and ventilators kept the house cool.

Each room had electric fans — initially DC, later replaced with AC — and water flowed by gravity. The lamps were cleverly designed with adjustable heights using counterweights and pulleys. The house was surrounded by a fence and ample open space, perfect for a garden. We enjoyed an abundant water supply, a separate servants’ quarters, and fresh milk delivered in glass bottles from the nearby military dairy farm.

Sadly, bungalows like these are no longer built today. What you see now are tall concrete structures with flats like pigeon nests!