Memories of Poona-4

Forts around Poona

Maharashtra is rightly known as the “Land of Forts,” with nearly 450 forts spread across the state—the highest number in India. The Marathas, renowned for their courage and military skill, made the most of the rugged terrain of the Western Ghats, which offered natural strategic advantages. It is no surprise, therefore, that many forts were built on the hills surrounding Poona, serving as strongholds for defense, administration, and control.

One of the most iconic structures within Poona city itself is Shaniwar Wada, an 18th-century fortification built as the official residence of Baji Rao I and the seat of the Peshwas. The name literally means “Saturday residence.” The complex was built with five gateways and nine bastion towers surrounding a beautifully laid-out garden. It remained the administrative center of the Maratha Confederacy until 1818. Sadly, a major fire in 1828 destroyed most of the structure, leaving behind the ruins we see today.

Beyond the city lie several well-known forts such as Simhagad, Purandar, and Shivneri—each steeped in history and legend.

During my school days in Poona, I enjoyed memorable picnic trips arranged by our teachers to the Purandar and Simhagad forts. I am happy to share a few recollections of those visits.

Purandar Fort:

Located about 50 km from Pune, Purandar Fort is historically significant as the birthplace of Sambhaji, the son of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. It also played a key role in Shivaji’s resistance against the Mughals. The fort has a distinctive two-tier upper and lower structure. Perched at roughly 4,500 feet above sea level, it offers breathtaking views of the Western Ghats and the surrounding countryside.

Simhagad Fort:

Situated around 36 km southwest of Pune, Simhagad (meaning Fort of the Lion) stands majestically on the Bhuleshwar range of the Sahyadris. Besides its stunning natural setting, the fort is noted for its long and dramatic history. Once under Mughal control, it was later captured by the Marathas in a legendary battle. Today, with its scenic vistas, challenging trekking paths, and historic charm, Simhagad remains one of the most popular forts.

There are several other prominent forts that I did not visit but knew of through stories and accounts.  

Shivneri Fort:

Located near Junnar, Shivneri Fort dates back to the 17th century and is revered as the birthplace of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. The fort houses statues of Shivaji and his mother, Jijabai, and stands as a proud reminder of Maratha heritage.

Raigad Fort:

A monumental symbol of Maratha glory, Raigad Fort rises to about 2,700 feet and served as the capital of the Maratha Empire under Shivaji Maharaj. It remains one of the most historically significant forts in Maharashtra.

Memories of Poona-3

 Exotic Professions in Poona

Poona has long been known for its teachers, scholars, sportsmen, and other accomplished professionals. Yet, beyond these well-known occupations, there existed a fascinating array of lesser-known trades — humble livelihoods that gave the city its unique character.

As a school-going boy, I was often captivated by these people who offered their services in public spaces. I remember the ‘Nhavis’— barbers who set up their mobile shops under the shade of a tree. There were no chairs or fancy tools, just a pair of scissors, a razor, a small mirror, and skilled hands at work. They charged a mere two or four annas depending on the quantum of work involved.

At the Poona railway station’s third-class ticket counter, an ‘Attarwala’ would appear with a tray of beautiful glass perfume bottles. For a few coins, he would dab fragrant attar on your wrists or neck; if you wished, he would even give you a quick head and neck massage.

Then there were the ‘Kaan Saaf Wallahs’— traditional ear cleaners, a profession that likely dated back generations. They offered their peculiar street-side service with great pride, though I imagine their numbers have dwindled over time with the advent of modern hygienic practices.

On my walks from Poona station to school, I would often pause to watch fortune tellers. Some used a caged parrot that would pick cards foretelling a client’s future; others preferred to read palms through a magnifying lens.

Inside trains, young vendors would move briskly through the aisles selling ‘katta mitta orange’— colorful assortment of sweet-and-sour candies neatly displayed on circular trays made from discarded cinema film reels. During the hot months, they switched to selling ‘kaakdi’ — peeled snow white cucumbers, gently sliced and sprinkled with salt and chili powder, a refreshing treat for weary travelers.

Another unforgettable sight was that of the ‘Vasudevs’ — men dressed in strikingly colorful headgear who went door to door singing the Lord’s glory to earn a modest living. Sometimes, they were accompanied by a decorated bull, adding color and devotion to the scene.

Not all scenes were pleasant, though. I remember being horrified by a few men from a particular community who would publicly whip their own backs with knotted cords — a painful ritual performed to earn alms from onlookers.

But among all these, my favorite memory remains the ‘Usaa cha Ras’ shops that offered fresh sugarcane juice extracted by a wooden press turned by a circling bull inside a makeshift tent. The villagers who ran these ‘Rasvanti Gruha’ or stalls would sing Marathi folk songs while the bull moved patiently in circles, the rhythm of the song matching the turning of the press.

These scenes from Poona’s streets, though simple and humble, remain deeply etched in my memory — each a glimpse into the city’s vibrant and diverse way of life. Loved those good old days!

Memories of Poona-2

The Bungalows of Poona

Having lived in one of the old bungalows built during the British era, I have always admired their distinctive architectural beauty. Some of these homes were spacious and grand, occupying large plots of land in the ordnance estate and military areas of Kirkee, while others were modest cottages with charming verandahs. Yet, every one of them had a special warmth that made it a lovely home. Many had enough space for a lush garden, adding to their charm.

The bungalow I lived in was a fine example of this old-world grace. Built with sturdy stone walls, it featured long front and back verandahs, smooth cemented floors, and imported Shanks sanitary fittings — including a large bathtub. The kitchen had a coal-fired baking oven with a built-in chimney, and the rooms were equipped with wooden shelves, cupboards, and two large three-compartment wardrobes. Doors of wood, glass, and net allowed light and air to flow freely, while the sloping tiled roof with a high false ceiling and ventilators kept the house cool.

Each room had electric fans — initially DC, later replaced with AC — and water flowed by gravity. The lamps were cleverly designed with adjustable heights using counterweights and pulleys. The house was surrounded by a fence and ample open space, perfect for a garden. We enjoyed an abundant water supply, a separate servants’ quarters, and fresh milk delivered in glass bottles from the nearby military dairy farm.

Sadly, bungalows like these are no longer built today. What you see now are tall concrete structures with flats like pigeon nests!

Memories of Poona-1

 

Memories of Poona

Agricultural College, Pune

As you all know, Pune is a renowned educational and celebrated cultural centre. One of my favourite colleges in Pune is the Agriculture College near Shivajinagar. While travelling by train, I admired the students working hard on the wide green fields with the signboard of the college in the background.

The well-known social reformer Mahatma Jyotiba Phule of Pune is said to be the founder of this great college, set up in 1907/8.

The main building of the college with its grand dome, a beautiful entrance hall and a library presents an amazing picture reflecting the high quality of education provided for over a century. You can see the pictures of this building then and now.

My family was a regular buyer of jaggery, vegetables and fruits sold through this college’s retail outlet. The quality of its produce was excellent.

Pune, my dear Pune… I am grateful to you and will never ever forget you.

 

My experience of the Vedic Wisdom.

I grew up in Kirkee, near Pune in Maharashtra, India – the land of ancient Vedic tradition. It is a part of the world that worships the five elements and hundreds of deities bearing different names. 

As a kid, I have seen many poor communities that lived happily and harmoniously without any luxuries. Such communities included people from different backgrounds, earning their living through inherited skills like in carpentry, weaving, pottery, metal work and so on. Once a week, a washerman picked up laundry from our home and returned it the following week washed, ironed and neatly folded. There were 'Tongawalas' who earned livelihood by driving a horse cart. There was an elderly Muslim gentleman who rode over 20 miles every day on his bicycle to deliver newspapers and magazines. A barber came home occasionally to give us a haircut. A carpenter made us a cricket bat and benches from waste wood for a song! The grocer gave us credit, fully trusting us. A fruit vendor on his bicycle sold us fruits. There were numerous small tradesmen who made a honest living selling all kinds of wares  and services door-to-door. There were travelling salesman who used to sell salt, cloth, bangles, aluminium utensils, cheap toys, ice cream etc. A kalaivala used to amuse the kids by setting up a shop on the ground.

Each of them was very happy pursuing his profession and we loved them for their dedication to work. In general, workers had pride in their workmanship and most importantly were contented. Being happy was primary. Earning money was secondary.

The primary school I studied at had no electric gadgets like fans, television or telephones. People believed in nature as the Almighty that provides resources for living. It was considered a sin to sell water or spit into it. I have witnessed people greeting each other by chanting the Lord’s name “Ram Ram.” Disputes in villages were often amicably settled in a ‘panchayat’ – a small court headed by the village chieftain – without any paperwork.

Social practices too had a code of behavior. It was considered a duty for sons to take care of old parents. Divorce was almost unheard of. At home, parents encouraged kids to wake up before sunrise and offer prayers. Every morning and evening, oil lamps must be lit at home. People believed (many still do) that some plants and trees like Tulasi, Neem, Bilva, Peepal, were divine. Even a blade of grass is a divine fit for offering to Lord Ganesha.

For most of us, life was simple, smooth and fun. Such was the great Wisdom of Vedic Tradition!

The Art of Aging

 Am I getting older? No. I am just chronologically gifted! in fact, I feel proud to be a member of the octogenarian club.

What is the Art of Aging? Art refers to a certain skill. So, the Art of Aging means the skill to age gracefully and face reality.

Most people fear old age. Whether you like it or not, aging happens since the day you were born. You need to accept growing old; it is inevitable. 

It is a part of life. If you are 80+ like me, think you are among the lucky ones to survive past 80.

You have entered a new phase of learning. Regardless of how you have lived in the past, you will gain new perspectives about life.

No doubt, you will face new challenges, both physically and mentally.A lot of weird stuff may be happening to your body. Lifting weights, running or climbing the stairs aren't exactly things to do after 80. Your food menu may change - not by choice but more by necessity. You may tend to forget many things like your glasses, keys and names. People around you may start treating lightly of what you say-some may become indifferent. 

You have more time to pursue things that make you happy. There are many things that can engage you positively with least disturbance to others. Enjoy the beauty of nature around you- see the wonderful colors of leaves and flowers, listen to the birds chirping, admire the beauty and innocense of little children, grow small plants and get excited when you harvest a produce -there are so many such nice pastimes for you. 

If you are a religious person, you can perform a puja at home or read some shlokas. If you are good in expressing yourself, write articles of interest.

Choose your attitude - Be always positive in your thinking and talking. Try and enjoy the food you eat even if it is not your favourite. Gauge how people feel when they are with you. Do they feel comfortable? Laugh with them, inspire them, encourage them and bless them for a wonderful life. Avoid arguments.

In Mahabharata, there is an interesting epiosde called "Yaksha Prashna." In this episode, Yama Dharmaraja in the form of an Yaksha asks many questions to Yudhisthira, the eldest of Pandavas. I recall two of the questions and answers that seem most relevant to seniors:

Question: What is the most surprising thing in this world?

Answer: The most surprising thing is, though all humans know they are mortal, everybody goes about their life as if they are going to live forever.

Question: What is the greatest happiness?

Answer: Contentment

Remember these wonderful responses by the wise Yudishtra.

In short, the Art of Aging is to find your own ways to enter the most exciting and perhaps the final phase of life!

Remembering My Mother

Twentyfive years ago, my beloved mother breathed her last on the last day of the year 1996. She was the most important person in shaping me. I remember her often and would like to write about her in this blog.

My mother was born in the year 1916 at Soolamangalam, a small village near Thanjavur in Tamil Nadu. She was named Gomathy in remembrance of her family's 'Kuladeivam' (family deity at Sankarankoil). Her father Sankaran and grandfather Swaminathan were rich Mirasdars (agricultural landlords) who lived in the village for generations. Because of a family feud, Sankaran lost much of his property and died young leaving his widow and eight children in the care of his father. 

In those days, people got married at young age. My mother got married when she was barely fourteen. My father had just entered college then. They lived together for a short time when misfortune struck again. Most unexpectedly, my paternal grandfather who was a practising doctor passed away. The burden of the family fell on my father's shoulder. It took some years of separation and distress for my parents. My mother was unfazed with all the struggles she had to endure. 

I was born soon after my father got a government job at cordite factory in Nilgiris. My family then moved to Kirkee, a suburb of Pune, where my father worked  at the High Explosives factory until his retirement. Much of memory revolves around my childhood days in Pune.

My mother was an exceedingly talented person. She was a good home maker. Her self-taught talents included cooking, stitching, crochet, embroidery, rangoli, home medicines and more. She made the most productive use of time. Best of all, she was a born leader and organizer. She leveraged her qualities to launch a women's association called Vanitha Vilas Ladies Club. Her objective was to engage the ladies in learning many skills to become more useful to their families and the community. Using a rented a bicycle, she taught the ladies to ride it. She borrowed a sewing machine and helped the members sew simple clothes at home. The picture shows a group of ladies and kids in the early stages of the club. She encouraged the ladies to participate sports like ring tennis and shuttlecock. Assembling the kids around, she organized cultural events that included drama and dancing. I recall that she took us on a field trip to the Paisa Fund Glass Factory in Talegaon. We all had loads of fun! 

One of her great qualities was to be clear and honest in conversations. Friends liked her and sought her advice. She had the gift to patch up broken relationships. Among many things I learnt from her, the most important are courage, honesty and integrity. 

I cannot describe her fully. To say in just one line, she was a wonderful human being. On this last day of the year, I fondly remember her and pay my humble tributes to her. She was a great and rare mother. Indeed, I am proud of her. I really love you, Amma! 

Ministers and Manners

 This blog is an interesting story that my father had told me. It is set in the years 1932-33. My father had just graduated in Chemistry from Annamalai University. He desperately wanted a job. It was very difficult to get a job those days. Madras (now Chennai) was the Mecca for job seekers as there were many companies. So, my father set out to seek his fortunes in Madras. Instead of mailing his CV, he went door-to-door visiting many companies. In one of the foreign companies dealing with chemicals, the English manager was kind enough to grant him an interview. On seeing my father, the first question he asked was, "Are you a buyer or seller?" My father replied, "Neither I am just a job-seeker." 'Ok. I see" said the boss, "Tell me what you can do for me?" My father reeled out his academic credentials. The English boss was unimpressed. He pointed to the books on a nearby shelf and said, " Youngman, whatever you told me now is all within my arms reach. So, why should I hire you? Can you develop a chemical formulation and sell it?" End of interview. No job.

 Totally disappointed and frustrated, my father looked at the newspapers. He chanced to read an ad. from the Indian Express seeking reporters. He applied and got the job. Added to the salary was a bonus in offering tuitions to the big boss Ramnath Goenka's young son. So, my father started his first job as a journalist.

The Editor Kasa Subbarao asked my father to interview Mr. P.T. Rajan (grandfather of present DMK minister P.T. Rajan) who was then a minister in the Justice Party Government. The Justice Party was the ideological predecessor of the Dravidar Kazhagam (DK). Smartly dressed, my father visited the office of Mr. P.T. Rajan. An attendant ushered him into a waiting room and went to inform the minister about his seeking an interview. My father waited patiently. After a long wait, the minister came out. Brushing past my father without even a glance, he shouted at the attendant, "Hey, you come here, haven't I told you not to let any dog from Indian Express to enter this premises?" My father got the hint and walked out quietly.

 Back at the Indian Express office, my father gave a tearful report of the humiliating incident to the editor. The Editor was a smart man. He calmed down my father and said, "Don't worry. Such insults are quite common in a journalistic career. But you know, the pen is mightier than the sword. Watch me, I will teach the minister a lesson." 

The next day, the Indian Express carried an editorial titled, "Ministers and Manners" lashing out at the minister's way of treating a media representative.

How to Live Happily?

People have been searching for an answer to this eternal question since times immemorial. Who does not want to be happy? Every day, we are being bombarded with a variety of messages from writers, politicians, priests, journalists, advertisers, film makers and others promising happiness. Do they really work? 

During my younger days, I dreamt of leading a very happy life. In pursuit of my goal, I read many self-improvement books that provided tips on how to lead a happy life. Most of these books were written by Americans, with catchy titles to attract ambitious people like me. The first book I bought was titled, "How to Win Friends and Influence People?" This book, written by Dale Carnegie, is reportedly been purchased more than thirty million times. I was greatly inspired by this book and was almost sure it will lead me to the path of success in my career and life, and then on to eternal happiness. The book was good, but it did not work for me as expected. I was worried that happiness was elusive but did not give up hope. So, I bought a second book by the same author. It was on "How to Stop Worrying and Start Living?" This book promised to grab worry by the horns and wrestle it to the ground, thus paving the way to happiness. Alas, this book too did not help me much as I was married then and worried about finding a decent flat to start living with my young wife in the city of Bombay. 

Being a firm believer in the power of optimism, I did not easily give up. I read more books, sought the advice of my seniors, saw inspiring movies, heard lectures on Bhagavad Gita- anything that held the potential to make me happy. The net result was confusion, a sense of fear and insecurity about the future. Many questions arose in my mind - like how Americans are wealthy and happy while India with all the holy religious leaders continued to struggle in poverty and unhappiness.  

It took me long time to realize what went wrong. I was trying to mimick the life of some successful people banking upon false values like fashionable life, material possessions, social reputation, and so on. I thought Americans are very happy as portrayed in the TV commercials, particularly the ones promoting drugs. The truth is many of them are really worried and depressed. One has to merely see the TV news on the number of shootings and violence that take place everyday. 

Interestingly, many poor Indians seem to be really happy for no reason to be happy. Just see the most beautiful smiles of poor children in India. Their parents struggle to make a living and yet are supremely happy. So, clearly money, materials and fame do not make one really happy. As my father used to say, "You can buy the most expensive bed in the world; it still does not guarantee you sound peaceful sleep."

So, how to live happily? You know that happiness is a state of mind. It does not come in 'fit all' forms. Every person is born different. So, happiness is also different to each one. To a child, even a cheap toy can bring happiness. One has to find happines by looking within. You cannot be happy by looking at others and comparing. Do some "Atma Vicharam" (Self-introspection) and discover your own inherent strengths and leverage them for activities that make you happy. Enjoy simple things in life like playing with a child and listening to music. Take a walk looking at birds, animals, plants and flowers. 

In short, make a change and start living a life based on your honest feelings. You will slowly find peace within yourself. After all, you are the one responsible for your happiness, and you alone can discover it!